Saturday, October 24, 2015

Fall 2015 In Moab

            On Sunday, September 27, 2015 we left home at 10am. On route to Hwy 62, and Klamath Falls, we stopped at the Table Rock Shell station to fill the tank. Anne had downloaded the audio book Mars, and we listened to the story as we casually motored over the pass to Klamath Falls. We skirted the city and continued over the open dry lands towards Dairy. We pulled into the large parking lot of Rice Feed & Supply at Dairy and ate lunch. It was quarter to one when we pulled in. Our next stop will be at Juniper Reservoir RV Park, a few miles to the west of Lakeview.
            Lakeview is nicknamed The Tallest Town in Oregon. The county seat of Lake County, Lakeview was established in 1889.  Its 2,300 occupants spend their days at 4,800 feet working in the timber industry, or in agriculture. Although in close proximity to Goose Lake, the Lakeview region is high desert arid. The annual rainfall is less than 16”.
            Juniper Reservoir RV Park is about ¾ mile north of Hwy 140. The well maintained gravel road leads us past a ranch house and barn. The park is in a lower flat of about five acres. It is nicely laid out and has plenty of pull-through sites for the larger coaches. By 3 pm we were settled into #38, for which we paid just $29.09 for our full hookup.
            Sites form a ring around a large, well-kept lawn which sported a permanent volleyball net. Other amenities included: covered picnic area, laundry, restrooms, and showers. For visual ambiance, and shade, each site was bordered by stately Aspen trees.
            This is a very special day. Tonight at 7:51 pm, we will witness the full harvest blood moon. The moon will rise on the east, in a fully eclipsed state. As it continues its ascent, it will slowly shed Earth’s shadow and present a full harvest moon. The blood moon description comes from the fact the moons illumination, as seen through the atmosphere at a very low, acute angle has been filtered of all but reddish hues.
            Our next door neighbors are from southern California. They are retired and have been touring the northwest. He had created a company which built Baha race engines. His favorite core engine was  the VW. She, like Anne, is an avid quilter. As they travel, she Googles stops in towns that have quilt stores. It seemed like a page from our own travel book.
          We had finished our dinner and today’s crossword puzzle by 9pm. I stepped outside to check on the moon. It had risen considerably, but it was still ¼ covered by our shadow. Wow. It has been over two hours, and the Earth still hasn’t released its cloak.
          The drive from Lakeview to Winnemucca had some wonderfully scenic stretches. It also had long miles of straight, stark nothingness. We crossed a few passes along the way. From many miles away we could see the etching the highway made as it snaked its way to the top of the next mountain range. If one dared to look, the view into the proceeding valley was breath taking. Looking, however, wasn’t something I wanted to do with the un-guard railed, narrow shoulders of the road. This was a 30 mph grade, and I was happy with that. Highway 140 ended when it T-boned into US 95 a few miles south of the Oregon/Nevada border. Hwy 140 had begun in White City, just a few miles north of our house.
          We were guided by an attendant riding in a golf cart. He led us to site #121 at the Winnemucca KOA RV Park. This KOA is easy to get to from Hwy 95, and it is on the road to access I-80E when we leave in the morning. We had the rig all set up for the evening by 4 o’clock.
          We are, after all, now in Nevada. That means that Anne will be looking for some entertaining slot machines. This happened a little past 6 pm. I was interested in doing some reading, so I begged off joining her. No worries, Anne will have a good time.
It was 4 o’clock, and I had a tinny in hand.  We were parked in site #5 at Wild Horse Crossing Campground. The drive north from Elko, on I-80, had been 72 miles. We drove through mountainous northern Nevada terrain. Wind had funneled down the canyons.
          As we had passed through Elko, we stopped at Walmart and stocked up on groceries. We then refueled and headed north on NV 225. Several miles out of Elko we received a phone call from Dave. He and Joy were calling from Walmart – go figure.
It was after nine this evening before Dave and Joy arrived back at Wild Horse. They had with them Duncan and Lanie. Duncan, and his wife, Lila, direct activities at the Malheur Reserve and Wildlife Sanctuary, a few miles south of Burns, OR. Lanie had been a longtime worker at Malheur, but now holds a position in Corvallis. She had joined Duncan for this expedition. Lila opted to stay to manage a slow period at the reserve. They had ridden to Elko in Lanie’s Subaru. Anne and I joined them in their Monaco for a few minutes, and then retired for the night.
          Early Wednesday morning we had a knock at the door. Duncan announced that breakfast was ready. Blueberry waffles and eggs was the fare. What a yummy way to begin the day.
          The fresh water pump on the Monaco had been acting up and Dave was in the process of removing it for a closer inspection. There was only room for one pair of shoulders in the service bay, so I watched. Dave’s endeavor was set aside as the four of them prepared to drive to an outback settlement for a day of touristy activity. Anne and I were happy to stay in the camp.
          It was around five o’clock when I received a text message from Dave. He advised me they were just leaving Idaho Falls. They would arrive home by nine. We had earlier retrieved Cleo, a very frisky Pepion dog, from their coach. The three of us watched a bit of TV in our bus.
Dave called at eleven and said they were just pulling into Elko. They were having motor trouble with the Subaru. He called again, at midnight, and said they had lost all of the oil. They were going to tow the car to the repair shop. They will stay the night at a motel in Elko. We will have to wait until the morning to find out what’s up, and what our role might be in the solution.
          The next morning Joy called and said the engine was ruined. They will get a rental and they should all be back in camp by five.
At noon, I turned on the TV to catch some news. A lone shooter had just shot and killed several students, and wounded more, at Umpqua Community College, near Roseburg. It seems this wasn’t a very good day for a lot of people.
          Lanie and Duncan made arrangements to have the Subaru trailered to Burns. There it would be repaired by a shop which Duncan had personal faith in. The quote for a rebuilt replacement motor from the shop in Elko was over $6,000, plus labor. Dave had received quotes from rebuilders for around $1,800, plus shipping. The Burns shop had presented such a quote.
Lanie needed to report for work in Corvallis on Monday. After Saturday’s breakfast we said our goodbyes to Lanie and Duncan. They returned to Burns in the rental car. All arrangements to get the Subaru back to Burns had been made.
          Dave and Joy travel with a Polaris RZR, all-wheel vehicle in the bed of their Ford Ranger pickup. The Ford is their towed car. Late morning, Dave motored to our site in the RZR. He had brought with him a Honda generator. He carries two small generators and he figured we could use one of them to keep our cabin batteries charged. The small Honda is quieter and more efficient than our on-board Onan diesel unit. The Honda will also be enough to run Anne’s sewing machine, or other small appliances.
          We set up the Honda and briefed Anne on its use. Dave then took me for a ride in the RZR. We crossed the highway to a small dirt road that climbed through the eastern hills of the Owahee canyon. I was quickly impressed with how smoothly the Polaris’ fully articulated suspension traveled over the unimproved trail.
          We soon came to a gate we needed to pass. I took care of opening and closing the gate. Dave told me that most of the northern part of Nevada is owned by a few ranchers. What they didn’t own was reservation property of the Shoshone tribe. The gate marked the boundary of one of the ranches. Beyond here was open grazing.
          Oh, oh! I had been afraid this would happen. Dave told me that I was going to drive the rest of the way. When I asked to where, he said until we decide to turn around. We ended up at the top of a craggy peak which stood prominently on the western edge of the next valley. We could view for several miles over the barren expanse of this piece of Nevada. Across the valley was a green trace of color etched around the weather worn slopes. This was a creek, which would provide life sustaining water for the unseen fauna that make this canyon their home. 
          We rode around rocky, washed out gulches, and across marshy patches protected by small groves of Aspen trees. At this time of the year the Aspens were yellowing. Their ever-quaking, ovoid leaves occasionally shook loose and were beginning to blanket the ground. In spots, the trail had completely washed away. We found ourselves nosing down, at awkward angles to gain traction enough to climb out to the flat once again.
          The RZR comes with a high speed, low speed transmission. It also has reverse, neutral and park. The axles can be shifted on the go between two wheel and four wheel drive. The single cylinder, 4-stroke, 570cc RZR also comes equipped with a very positive, power steering system. The only short coming, for me, is that the throttle pedal is very stiff. But, I suppose it can be a good thing, in that going faster requires active foot focus in order to achieve the extra speed. Perhaps the nicest feature of the RZR is that it uses engine braking. Only once, while on the track, did I actually use the brake pedal.
          On the return to our campground, Dave had me drive a stretch on the highway. It seemed effortless for the RZR to reach 50 mph. I’m sure it could have done more. Dave advised me I had passed my driver’s test, and that I could take Anne for a ride, if she liked. I’ll ask her.
          “Do you wanta watch some football?” This evening the Boise State Broncos host a game against Hawaii’s Rainbow Warriors. The satellite remote doesn’t receive ESPN. Dave planned that he and I would drive to Mountain City after dinner and watch the game at the bar & grill. Tonight we were having BBQ chicken, and I have been designated the cook. Joy prepared a salad and a side dish. We supped in the comfort of their Monaco coach.
          The time of the game was uncertain. Did it start at 7 pm Pacific Time, or Mountain Time? Just in case, we left early for the eight mile drive to Mountain City. Mountain City had, at one time, been an active mining town within the Shoshone reservation. Today, it has a few homes, a post office, and the bar & grill.
          As we approached the bar, it was clear that the bar keep recognized Dave from past football night visits. When asked, she gave Dave the remote control for the corner mounted flat screen TV. Dave checked the TV guide. The game would begin at 8:15 pm, Mountain Time. We had a half hour wait. It seems strange that eight miles south, at the Wild Horse campground, we were in the Pacific Time zone.
          The Boise State field is blue. Tonight the Bronco’s uniforms were gray and blue. The Rainbow Warriors wore white. At times, the Broncos blended so well into the background they almost disappeared on the field. We left when the score became 55 to 0, in favor of Boise State. The outcome had become clear.
          A team is either hosting a game, or they are on the road. Hawaii has a pretty rough schedule. This year, the team, with all of its support staff and gear, will fly over 40,000 miles to meet their away game obligations. I wonder which airline was awarded this year’s flight contract.
          Dave and Joy left for church service at 9 am. I read for a while, and Anne cutout fabric for a new quilt. Cleo, the dog, was left in the Monaco. Anne took a break at 11 am, and again at 2 pm to fetch Cleo and give her walks. Dave had left the key to the RZR. This afternoon I took Anne for a ride into the mountains. We both had a good time.
          Dave and Joy are “employed” by the Forest Service to be the camp hosts at Wild Horse Canyon Campground. In addition to duties at Wild Horse, they are also responsible for checking on the needs of a nearby, more remote campground. When church services were through, they drove to the other campground to inspect its condition.
          Each Sunday, the church congregation holds a potluck luncheon, which Dave and Joy regularly take part in. They left the church after 1 pm and returned to Wild Horse in their white Forest Service pickup at 4:30 pm. They were just in time for dinner.
          Anne had retrieved the BBQ chicken leftovers from Joy’s refrigerator. Anne made chicken fajitas. They turned out fantastic, plus, we finished off the chicken; two meals for the price of one.
Joy was feeling a little wonky this evening. She was coming down with a upset stomach. I likely was the vector for her ills. I was just reviving from the same problem. I had captured it from Chris and Jennifer’s boys at the house. Despite her discomfort, Joy was up to a game of pinochle. It would be the guys vs the gals. Play stopped at 8 o’clock. The girls were ahead, but it wasn’t over yet.
          Monday’s dinner was stroganoff. Anne prepared the meal from leftover steaks we had barbequed a couple of evenings earlier. For desert, Anne had made an apple crisp. The meal was terrific. Following dinner we played a few hands of cards. Joy and Anne both caved with the cards and retired early. Dave and I watched a bit of TV, and sipped second glasses of Merlot.
          The Honda generator ran out of gas. To continue to watch TV, I switched on the coach’s inverter. The inverter converts 12 vdc, it gets from the house batteries, into 120 vac, available from all of the wall plugs. The conversion process is done at the expense of stored, reserve capacity to operate the normal house dc functions. When I turned the inverter off, I checked the reserve level of the house batteries. They read a little over 11 vdc. I then made my way into bed.
          It was 6 am when I woke up to a very cold home. All dc electrical functions had shut down. The bedroom’s propane furnace had, sometime during the night, consumed the last of the battery’s reserve, while propelling gentle, warming air into our bedroom.
          There was a plan. Donning a jacket, I went outside to see if there was, maybe, a few minutes life left in the Honda’s fuel tank – no luck. With the aid of my flashlight, I quietly made my way to Dave and Joy’s campsite to fetch his red, plastic gas can. If I made too much noise, I was sure to arouse Cleo, and she would start barking.
          The gas can was not where it had been yesterday. As I was leaving their site, I glanced into the bed of the serviced pickup. I saw the can. When I hefted it, I noted that it was full of air. I returned empty handed.
          That whole effort was to avoid turning on the RV diesel generator. Doing so would surely wake up the neighbors-the heck with it. The cabin temperature was in the low 50s. The diesel generator starts by drawing juice from the house batteries. The house batteries were dead. The alternator of the coach engine provides house battery recharging. I started the engine. This allowed me to fire up the generator. In about 30 seconds appliances which run on ac power begin to lite up. On this chilly morning, however, the ac hardware remained asleep. The RV’s power transfer switch wasn’t switching. I ran the coach engine for a while. This gave the batteries some new life.
          It has always amazed me that semi-trucks could pull into a rest stop and spend a whole lunch time with the engine still running. Yes, if the truck had just been climbing hills, then the motor needed to run for a bit in order to cool down the turbines. That didn’t require the entire lunch time. The Cummins diesel engine on our Freightliner chassis had a wonderful cooling system. The temperature gauge never exceeded 200F. I had been running the engine at idle for over an hour. The batteries were now charged enough for basic things to work again. The decision was made that I should drive to Owahee, 25 miles to the north, to refill the 5 gallon gas can. I returned an hour later with some Honda soda. Up and running now, I’ll check out the transfer switch malfunction after lunch.
          The last afternoon a camper had stopped next to our site and asked if I had an air compressor. The pickup he drove was towing a 20 foot camper, and behind it, he was towing a car trailer with an ATV on board. The camper’s tires were low, as were those of the trailer. I kept a 50’ air hose coiled on the top of the Onan generator. I started the main engine to build up air pressure, and then I uncoiled the air hose. A few minutes later, the man thanked me and drove away fully pumped up.
While I was providing compressed air, I had inadvertently hit the generator’s on/off switch for charging. There had been no juice flowing to the transfer switch. I reset the switch, and now all is well. Lesson learned.
          In two days, Friday, we will caravan to Moab, UT to spend a couple of weeks in the high desert. Dave had borrowed several large items from the Forest Service District office when he and Joy accepted the hosting position. He had towed in a horse trailer. That he used to store the RZR and other bulky campsite supply items. He also brought in a 300 gallon fresh water tank mounted on a trailer. The water was used to replenish their RV fresh water tank. Shovels, buckets and all of the smaller hardware had to be packed up and returned to the District office. Dave used the service’s pickup to tow the trailer back this morning. Anne and Joy drove away at about the same time as Dave. They were going to Elko to shop and do laundry. I was left in charge of caring for Cleo, and preparing the pot roast in the Dutch oven over the fire pit.
          My first task this morning was to scrounge wood from empty camp sites. Enough wood was needed to keep heat under the Dutch oven for a few hours. The fire was lit at 11 o’clock. The roast was on in half an hour. For the next few hours, I stayed close to the pit. I added wood to the bed and I added water to the pots mixture. The onion rings I put in at the beginning were looking pretty gnarly. At 2:30 pm I removed the oven from the coals and set it aside to cool.
          While the roast had cooked, I had needed to add a second can of bullion, a pint of Merlot, and almost half a gallon of water to keep things from burning to the pot. Moisture just seemed to disappear. When I removed it, and deemed it done, things were looking pretty dark. The meat, however, felt very soft, and giving to the poke of my fork.
The meal tonight tasted very good, albeit a bit carbon based. The meat was tender, and the potatoes and carrots were done. Everything on the plate glistened with a black hue.
          Thursday was a day of organizing the repacking of the Monaco. After a summer of living, much of what had been in the underneath bays had been removed and used. Each container was numbered, and the contents noted. I carried containers to the coach and kept note of where it was stored. It was a hard working afternoon.
          My suggestion to the ladies was to drive to Mountain City and eat dinner at the bar & grill. This would be the last evening at Wild Horse Crossing. We deserved a bit of celebration. Fish & chips, Coors, and shrimp was the fare selected from the grill’s menu. Anne did her usual thing and walked away with a profit from the bar’s slots.
          We plan to leave the campground at 9:30 am tomorrow. A stop needs to be made in Elko, and then again at Wells to return the service pickup and the 300 gallon water buffalo. Wells, NV is where we will spend our next night.
          We left Chinatown Casino, CafĂ© & RV Park at 9:30 am. On the way out of Wells, we stopped at the Flying J. Both of us topped up with fuel. I also filled the propane tank. We had loosely decided that we would stop for the night somewhere close to, but west of Salt Lake City. Our destination is Moab, but we are going to do the drive in two days. On the way to Salt Lake City, we stopped at the Bonneville Rest Area. The stop was mid-way across the infamous salt flats. This I-80 rest stop featured a two-story lookout which offered a great overlook of the expanse of the flats.
          Joy located an RV park in Tooele, UT. We were parked at the Vorwaller Homestead & RV Park by 3 pm. This is Saturday and Boise State is playing Colorado at 4 o’clock, MST. Dave and Boise State are an item, so his number one priority was to help me setup the satellite antenna, and to find the broadcast channel. We had tickets to watch the game on the CBS Sports channel. The Broncos showed the Rams no mercy. It had been a good game. Anne prepared a chicken Caesar salad dish for dinner. We ate, and called it quits for the day.
          Sunday morning was a good time to be leaving Tooele. Most of Main Street was under construction. Pylons marked very narrow, two-way lanes, and the driving would be slow. I couldn’t perform the tight right hand turn out of the Vorwaller RV Park so I crossed the highway to the Albertson’s parking lot. From this lot, I could easily get onto Hwy 365. Anne and I left at 10:30 am and planned to park down the road a ways and wait for Dave and Joy. We listened to some of our recorded story.
          Our route took us south, and east, around Utah Lake. We picked up a few miles of I-15 at Santaquin. Near Spanish Fork, we leaped off of the freeway and followed Hwy 6, south towards Price. The landscape changed significantly while crossing the Manti-LA Sal Mountains. We started to see roughly cut cliffs and jagged peaks. Dave pulled into a vacant looking motel lot, just south of Price. The National 9 Inn of Wellington featured a dozen pull-through parking sites. Each site had power, water and sewer hook-ups. The lot was void of foliage, but it did have a large river houseboat perched on cross thatched stacks of lumber, at the eastern edge of the grounds. Dave and Joy were return customers at The National 9. They had spent a period in 2012 visiting with the grand kids. The girls had a good time playing with Cleo in the small, grassed picnic area. We will be here for two nights.
          Tonight, dinner was served at the Cowboy Outhouse. The restaurant was a convenient spot, a mile back towards Price. Of the menu choices, our table selected lamb, salads, and a burger. The servings were enormous, and the meats were ok. The Cowboy Outhouse was comfortable, and there were lots of paintings of western scenes. Tomorrow, Joy has promised meatloaf. I’m looking forward to that dinnertime.
          We drove over forty miles into Nine Mile Canyon. The canyon is a natural conduit through the Book Cliffs between the Price River drainage and the Uintah Basin. The road through the canyon links Hwy 6, near Wellington, to Myton, on Hwy 40, to the north some 70 miles.
          Over the centuries, many people have traveled through, and have inhabited the canyon stretches. Some were Native American, including the Fremont, and the Ute. The US 9th Cavalry built the road that was used by the settlers and the freighters, who hauled goods from Price to the Uintah Basin. Each passing group left traces in nine mile Canyon. The remnants include: rock art, historic inscriptions, telegraph poles, and homesteads.
         The rock of the cliffs was formed from lake sediment some 55 million years ago. When the area uplifted, Nine Mile Creek began cutting out the canyon. The resulting sandstone and shale left flat surfaces rising above the canyon floor. Over time, exposure to the sun and to the elements created a darkened varnish on the surfaces of the massive vertical faces of stone. Prehistoric artists discovered that when the surfaces were pecked at, the varnish layer dropped away. This left a high contrast image on the lighter colored, underlying stone.
          Successions of cultures have lived in the canyon for at least 8,000 years. The most prolific rock artists were members of the Fremont culture. Archaeologists have determined that the Fremont occupied the canyon for a thousand years, before leaving around 1200AD.
          Predominant trees along the creek include cottonwood, poplar, and willows. At higher elevations, pinion-juniper gives way to aspens, mountain brush, along with firs, spruce and pines. Sagebrush, grass, rabbit bush, greasewood, cactus and others compose the under-story vegetation.
          Nine Mile Canyon was one of the locations most heavily occupied by the Fremont. In contrast to the purely hunter-gatherer cultures that surrounded them, the Fremont practiced agriculture, growing corn and squash along the canyon bottom. One of the Fremont’s most treasured pictographs is known as the Great Hunt Panel. When mountain goats gather, it is during mating season. The Fremont knew where these gatherings happened. The Great Hunt Panel depicts Fremont hunter’s prowess in killing selected animals in the large herd. Bowmen, kneeling, and standing are shown with bows drawn.
           By the 16th century the ancestral Utes were in the canyon. They added to the rock art already on the walls, but in styles of their own. Many scenes, for example, depict Ute hunters on horseback and date to the 1800s. Despite the number of Ute artifacts found in Nine Mile, there is no archaeological evidence of any Ute camps or residences.
          We are still in Utah, and in Utah geology is king. One of the rock features found above the road side is Balanced Rock. A massive stone sits atop a cliff outcropping. At the base of the rock, the cliff presents the weathered likeness of a ram’s head, which supports the stone. Driving around the canyon lands of Utah, I was continuously reminded of how vulnerable the highways were with the overhanging threat of when the next piece of the cliff was going to break loose. Balanced Rock was an imminent threat to passing motorists.
In the morning, Dave had volunteered to be the driver for the day. Some years ago, he and Joy had visited the canyon. They knew many of the special sites to see. Anne had prepared sandwiches and had filled a cooler with fruit, chips and drinks. We stopped at a picnic rest area at the Argyle Canyon Road junction. It was a clear blue sky. The temperature at our 6,800 foot high respite was in the mid-seventies, and there was a refreshing breeze. We had enjoyed a wonderful day of sightseeing.
          Nine miles north of Moab, on Hwy 192, is Willow Springs Road. The road is two cars wide and paved with 2” of talcum fine, red-brown dust. Willow Springs was at one time the road into the Arches monuments. Today, it is a dusty road on BLM land crossing Willow Flats. A few hundred yards beyond Hwy 191, the BLM has carved half dozen, large parking bays for camping, or RV use. Several miles before Willow Springs Road, we pulled over and un-hooked the towed vehicles. Joy and Anne drove ahead and reported, via walkie-talkie, regarding the availability of an empty RV pad. Dave and I were given two thumbs up. We discovered the ladies had picked out a very large, flat pad which would easily park the two of us, and four or five more, if desired. This would be perfect.
          We had a great view of the buttes which bordered the Arches. Our closest neighbors were a good 100 yards away. Today’s temperature was in the high 70s, and the sky was clear. We parked side-by-side, ran out the awnings, and lay down the carpet, for tables and chairs. Tonight was going to be aired the first Democrat debate of the 2016 Presidential Race. I set out the satellite antenna and tuned the Directv receiver for tonight’s viewing.
          After setup, Dave and I drove into Moab to get gas for the RZR, check at the Post Office to confirm reception of general delivery main, and we looked into renting a second ATV. The cost for a full day ATV use was going to be about $300.  I told Dave that this kind of money for dust eating, kidney jarring, sage brush bashing wasn’t something I was terribly interested in. We agreed that a couple of sorties, with one of us as passenger, would give Anne and me a good feel for Willow Flats ATV opportunities. 
          The sun rose slowly, casting long shadows behind the pinions and sage defining the desert floor. The bluffs to the west showed off their colors, each representing vast eons of patience while nature completed her pallet. Iron oxides at the bottom, a few feet of teal above the red, followed by yards of brown covered with alluvial carnage from the majestic walls of basalt that created a crowning ring on the bluffs flat tops.
          When we first pulled onto our BLM spot on Willow Springs Road, Anne had moved two pumpkins that had been carved for Halloween, and left behind. She suggested I use them for target practice.
          Coffee cup was in hand when I stepped from the coach to begin m bow practice. I brought along my packaged, foam archery target. A berm at the rear edge of our site will make a perfect stopper for the occasional arrow that doesn’t go where I thought I had directed it. My quiver has six wood arrows. After around five quivers full of shooting, ends in archery talk, I was ready for some trick-or-treat.
          Anne wanted to watch the carnage, and I called her outside when I went for a coffee refill. The pumpkin sat on top of my target. Shooting from 25 yards, I placed the first few arrows in the target. Putting the arrows closer to the top, the last of the round went through the carved out mouth. Three more ends were hurled at the orange orb. Eventually, the pumpkin’s chin collapsed. I called it quits for the day. I travel with a couple of bows, arrows and the target. Unless we camp in the outback, I get rare opportunity to do any target practice. This site is a perfect practice location.
          After breakfast, we loaded into the Honda and drove a mile towards Moab, to the newly opened dinosaur museum, called Moab Giants. We bought tickets that would cover all sights the museum had to offer.
The earth is approximately 5 billion years old. Far after its formation, single cell organisms formed in the seas. These morphed into more complex forms, including, eventually, plants. The plants gradually replaced the toxic atmosphere above land and sea with oxygen. Animals began to emerge from the waters. Specie diversity exploded. But, during the Mesozoic era, beginning about 500 million years ago, dinosaurs ruled the land masses.
          The Mesozoic Era was made up of three periods: the Triassic, Jurassic, and the Cretaceous; the oldest to the most recent. The Jurassic period ended some 60 million years ago. The museum is a walking park which takes one on a guided path that begins in the early Triassic period. Along the path, every 50 yards, or so, is an info-board describing the discovery and characteristics of the life-size dinosaur staring in a menacing manner at you from the bush and rock a few yards away.
          As you walk through the ages, the form, capabilities and sizes of the dinosaurs evolve. Specialties sorted the animals apart, not necessarily their size. Some dinosaurs were meat eating hunters, and some were happy to graze, or gnaw on trees. The smallest adult animals were weighing in at a few hundred pounds. While the largest dinosaurs tipped the scales at over 10 tons.
Dinosaurs have been historically identified by studying casts of their footprints. Footprints have been found all over the globe. When the soil and environmental conditions were just right, a dinosaur may have walked over a soft soiled area, leaving a very deep impression in the dirt. The footprint may then have gradually been covered by organisms which served to protect the impression from erosion. Filled with detritus, or dirt, over time, the soil with its footprint was converted to stone. The footprint laid hidden deep in its stone bed for millions of years. Perhaps uplifting exposed the stone to the elements, and erosion began to work away the surface. Eventually, the layer of the stone containing the footprint was exposed. Now it becomes a matter of being discovered by someone who recognizes what the dents in the stone represent.
          This part of Utah is famous, of course, for its magnificent geological structures. The greater Moab area, however, is also blessed with having a very large quantity of dinosaur footprints. Many of the species displayed on the museum’s outdoor path were once home in Moab, as well as at other parts of the world. At the end of our trek, we enjoyed a break in the cafeteria. We had servings of soft ice cream. We all had the same opinion of our dinosaur adventure today. This commercialized history lesson was an 8-thumb up trip.
          This morning Anne and Joy loaded the Honda CRV with baskets of foul smelling clothes. They drove off in search of a laundromat. A stop at the grocers, as well as the pharmacy, was also on their list.
          I enjoyed bringing a total ruin to Mr. Pumpkin. With a face nearly as sad as his, I finally set the pumpkin aside. It would later be put in the rubbish bin. I shot several more ends at my target. I don’t know why, but I find it very satisfying to hear the arrows thump into the target, placed one after another near the spot I had been aiming. A few occasionally even hit the actual dot.
          As the morning aged, the desert sun grew to be uncomfortable. Our two coaches are parked side-by-side. The Monaco is on the northeast side. This position affords Dave and Joy a cooler climate later in the day. A note to self: choose that position next time.
          Dave’s job this morning is to remove the air cleaner from the RZR and to re-grease its seal. Drats. In the process, he let the hose clamp drop. It landed on top of the protective belly pan. Now his work became looking through the many chests of storage to come up with his 18” long, grabber tool. Dave is a very methodical man. With patience, he talked to himself and discussed where he might look next. Occasionally, a strain associated grunt would be expelled as he knelt, hefting another chest from a storage bay. Aha! The shiny sliver of a tool was finally found. It was in the container holding all of the electrical supplies. A level of well-being refilled the air.
          While Dave had been on his grabber quest, I had knapped my way through two chunks of obsidian, and I had turned them into resemblances of arrowheads. Dave examined one and he thought it would be fun to scatter them on the ground for the kids to find. Yes, it could be a Thanksgiving Day arrowhead hunt. I should have been a pilgrim.
          We had both received a bit of exercise this morning, and we had enjoyed job completion satisfaction. It was 1 o’clock, time for the news, and a break for lunch. My sandwich and cookies were good. This was despite their consumption while ingesting America’s, and the world’s social and political maladies, as reported on the TV. Interesting, I find that I have watched so much of the same shenanigans, and strife, that I no longer dwell on it once the TV set has been turned off.                           However, I feel I may miss some extraordinary event in our history, if I don’t take the time to watch the program again tomorrow. Something is wrong here, somehow.
          The ladies came back a bit after five. They were loaded down with bags of groceries, and chests filled with sweet smelling fabrics. What a pleasant transition. Joy had purchased two, thick tenderloin steaks for our dinner. When I was designated the Barbie watcher, I was also instructed to make sure at least one of the steaks turned out to be cooked medium-rare. Luckily, I had just the right gadget to make sure the center of each cut measured 145F, when it was removed.  All I needed was a pair of AAA batteries. Joy happened to have some extras.
          With the meat probe loaded, Dave and I lit the briquettes in the pre-heater container. I delivered the meat to the kitchen within the half hour. Accolades were given to the chef. The meat was cooked just right, and it was tender, and juicy. Phew!
          Highway 128 runs alongside the Colorado River for several miles. It then courses into the hills and passes a community called Castle Valley. This town is about 15 miles east of Moab. Castle Valley isn’t a town, but perhaps, a settlement. We saw no stores. There was, however, a fire station. Each year, at the end of harvest, Castle Valley hosts a gourd festival. The one-day event begins with a parade, and ends with a potluck luncheon at the fire station. Gourd artists from around the region display their wares on tables nested beneath awning tents.
          Gourds of many varieties and sizes are carved, and then decorated. The finished motifs vary from intricately detailed Native American geometric patterns, to boldly painted Halloween masks. The gourd is prepared by first sanding the surface until it is glassy smooth. It is then carved and shaped with knives and Dremel tools. Dyes, acrylics, and lacquer add background colors and details to the surface art. Textures can be added with sandy pastes, leather, or fabrics. The gourds had a variety of extras added, such as, antlers, feathers, pine needles, and lacing.
          The parade featured costumed villagers, tractors, fire engines and EMS vehicles, and one Model A hot rod. Candy was tossed from the vehicles, and sirens were sounded. It was a fun, small village event which united a community spirit.
          From Castle Valley, which was named from the shapes of the surrounding bluffs, we drover to Bull Canyon Overlook. A windy, broken pavement road climbed up to 8,500 feet to a paved pullout. The overlook is a short hike from the parking bay, over exposed stone slabs which, at one time, were perhaps made from the dark and muddy surface of marsh land. The overlook gives one an uninhibited view of the Colorado Canyon lands, from a vantage point of several thousand feet. Dave and I crept carefully to the edge of the boulder outcroppings to capture photographs of the magnificent sight.
          The overlook, with its breath taking view isn’t, however, the reason Bull Canyon Overlook was developed. The high altitude bluffs had been formed by an uplifting of the earth’s crust, many millions of years ago. Long before this part of the crust heaved, dinosaurs roamed the flora rich lowlands. Where they roamed, they left footprints.             The stone slabs which led us to the valley outlook contained many, well defined dinosaur tracks. At a few places, the massive reptiles sank deeply into the then soft surface. What kind of dinosaurs were they? This could be identified by comparing the prints with those archived at the Moab Giants museum.
          The road that brought us to Castle Valley, and then to Bull Canyon Overlook, was a large circular loop from Hwy 191, north of Moab, and then returning to Hwy 191, south of Moab. We had begun at the north and had wound our way down from the snow dusted peaks to the south entrance of Moab. We had skipped lunch today, and it was past 3 o’clock. We decided we would stop at Jay’s Pasta for our meal. Jay’s was jumping, on this late Saturday afternoon. I enjoyed a mug of Moab Brewing ale, while others appreciated water, or wine. We all appreciated the meal. Anne had chosen water for her drink, so, she was selected as the designated driver for the nine mile, dusk time return to our camp.
          Sunday, we did our own things. Joy prepared chicken enchiladas for dinner. The meal included a tossed green salad. Dave and I did well tonight at pinochle. We were ahead by about 1,000 points when Anne “shot the moon”. This seems to be her classic, come from behind method to squash the opponents. When retiring for the night, Dave called us outside to see the sheet lightening. The flashes were silhouetting the northwestern peaks of the far desert. There were so many explosions from clouds in the same region. It made me wonder why Nature didn’t just get it done the first time, and discharge the clouds with one big show.
          At 3 o’clock this morning, my side window lit up. In my sleepy state I imagined that the Paparazzi had tracked me down to our Willow Flats RV site. Within a few seconds, the coach shook from the report. Now, wide awake, I realized that I wasn’t a famous celebrity, after all. The flashes and crashes continued for many minutes. Rain began to belt down on our fiberglass roof. The thunder, after each pulsing burst, cracked loudly, and then slowly rumbled off to distant spaces. I scrambled from bed and closed the roof vent hatches. Anne, of course, had also awakened, and she asked what I was up to. I returned to bed, and for several minutes we listened to Nature’s violent activity. This we did from under the cozy, warm blanket, and within our protected surround. 
          La Sal Mountain Outfitters is the archery shop in Moab. Every Tuesday evening they host a friendly target shooting competition. Dave and I wanted to do some indoor shooting, so we ate early, and drove to town. Anne and Joy wanted to come along to be our cheerleaders. We were greeted by Kelly, the shop manager. He set us up with targets and we got started. Dave and I were the only archers using longbows, the other four shooters were armed with compound bows. We shot until we tired. Indoor shooting at a large butt, mounted against the wall, Is a lot more comfortable than trying to hit my 18”x 18” target butt. With that one, when you miss, you get to watch the arrow skitter across the dirt and rock, before it comes to rest near sagebrush.
          Canadian vanilla ice cream, with blackberry pie, who could ask for more. Anne’s pie was delicious. The dessert set the four of us for one last round of pinochle. We are going to leave Willow Flats in the morning. “Just to show there had been no hard feelings, Honey.” I ended the game with a lay down shoot-the-moon hand. Tadah!


























Monday, September 21, 2015

Knapping in the Man Cave

     Home from the trip to Sunriver, I was eager to start working with the obsidian. First up, however, was to clean up Anne's CRV. It had treated us well while it slowly found the way to Little Glass Butte. To climb further to the top of Main Glass Butte would have required 4-wheel drive and a higher ground clearance. We'll need to save that for another day.



      Once I was cleared by the CRV boss, I hid myself in the man cave, fashioned a couple of knapping tools, donned my Bob apron and selected my first obsidian victim from one of the two bags we had filled.  
      The first thing that needs to be done with the stone is to attempt to create a usable flake. This normally means holding the stone firmly in one hand and whacking it severely with a hammer stone with the other hand. If you have selected a good spot on the stone's surface, then a piece(s) of obsidian will fall away. One needs to whack the stone at an angle which is away from the stone's center of mass. The angle is ~ 75 degrees. 

     Well, whack away I did. If I weren't such a newbie at this craft, I would suggest that it appeared many of the obsidian stones we had found at Glass Butte were defective, because all they did was crumble when struck. Of course, I was striking the piece incorrectly.  Alas, I finally managed to break off a usable flake.
      This first step is known as percussion knapping. This is often done with a river rock that is easily gripped and has a distinct striking edge. Using a percussion tool is often the easiest way to rid a flake of regions of excess stone.
     The next step is called pressure knapping. 
The lathe was handy to turn a couple of grips to hold small lengths of 3/16" brass rod. Metals such as copper, of which brass is primarily made, work well in holding firm on the edge of a flake of obsidian.
     When down and outward pressure is applied on the edge of the flake with the flaking tool, one wants to hear a snapping sound as the tip of the tool breaks past the edge. How the tool is positioned on the edge, at what angle of attack it is held, and how much thrusting pressure is applied all combine to determine the size and shape of the small flake which breaks away. A pointed antler has historically been favored as a pressure knapping tool.
      I used the drill press to center a hole in the end of the new handle. I then tapped a 2" length of brass rod into the end. I roughened the end of the rod with my hammer stone. The hammer stone can also be used to mildly abrade the edge of the obsidian stone you are flaking. This is important to repeatedly do, as flake removal leaves behind a shiny and slippery surface.       
     The surface one is working on is know as the platform. The platform must have an edge which is either flat, or slightly raised. If not, the flaking tool will just slide off. 
     I quickly learned that creating something like an arrowhead is not a very efficient use of an obsidian stone. It is my hope that my efficiency will improve rapidly so I do not cobble all of the stones into gravel and dust. 
     Within a few hours, and a couple of days, I had created a few arrowheads. A handful of them turned out to be very nicely proportioned; length, width, and thickness wise. I also created a significant pile of very sharp pieces of volcanic glass.     
                                               
                    
     As an archer, I was eager to try a few of the heads to see it they could withstand impact with my hay bale target butt. Over time many of my arrows receive some form of damage. I selected three which needed new points. 
     After carefully notching the tips, I used a waxed nylon string to bind the heads to the shafts. In the wild, one would use sinew to tie on the head and follow up with a pitch to take any small amount of wiggle out of the arrowhead. I chose to use a few drops of CA glue, aka, superglue. Those heads were locked in tight.
    It has been said that a fine flake of obsidian will create a cutting edge that is one molecule thick. This is compared to surgical steel which can be sharpened to within four molecules of thickness. The flaked edge of an arrowhead is much wider than one molecule, but it is still extremely sharp. I was impressed with the arrows' balance and how well they flew. All shot true and survived to be used again, and again, I hope.






Wednesday, September 2, 2015

A week’s get-away to Sunriver


Anne and I schedule at least six weeks each summer and autumn for stays at our Sunriver condo. We rarely fulfill our total visits and we end up donating some of the weeks to family and friends.

            Anne booked a couple of weeks near my birthday at the end of August. We came over on Saturday the 29th and will stay through Friday the 4th of September. Chris, Jennifer and the boys will come to Sunriver on the 4th to spend the weekend with Jennifer’s brother, Drew, and his wife and daughters. Drew’s clan is driving down from Seattle for the visit.

            This has been a busy summer and Anne and I both looked forward to the get-away. We arrived Saturday afternoon to find that our condo was occupied. RCI, the organization which books all of the visits, had erred and lodged a party in our unit when we were supposed to be there. We were housed in another condo until Monday when our unit would be vacant and cleaned for us. This worked ok.

            Anne quickly setup the table with here quilting project. She looks forward to these visits because she can get uninterrupted time for her crafts. I finished a historical book on the development of the periodic table. The title is The Disappearing Spoon. The subject sounds obtuse, but it is a very clever account of the discoveries of the natural elements and the subsequent creation of man-made elements.  The discovery methods are fascinating, and some of the original uses of the elements were mind boggling. My next read may be even stranger.

The grandsons presented me with a copy of The Simpsons and their Mathematical Secrets for my birthday. The Simpsons is one of the most successful television shows in history. The weekly episodes expose viewers to social philosophy, moral and ethical positions, religious and spiritual viewpoints, and science and mathematics. President George H. W. Bush claimed to have exposed the real message behind The Simpsons. He believed that the series was designed to display the worst possible social values. At the 1992 Republican National Convention he said, “We are going to keep on trying to strengthen the American family a lot more like the Waltons and a lot less like the Simpsons.”

Authors of the scripts for the series are dominated by writers with strong academic backgrounds in mathematics and computer science. There are Harvard and Princeton PhDs in the group. All are dedicated to including math and science into most of the weekly programs. The evidence of their work is often very sub-rosa and sometimes involves complex mathematical concepts. Written by Simon Singh, a PhD Particle Physicist and a successful science author, the book presents an easy read about The Simpsons and how weekly topics are developed.

Central Oregon is known as a high desert region. There is much history here about the volcanic foundations of the Cascade Mountain Range. My son, Chris, and down-under friend, John Mignone, have
interested me in spending some pass time knapping. This is how one creates things like arrowheads out of a piece of obsidian. With time available, I decided while in Sunriver I would stock up on obsidian to take home. A good place to start is at Newberry National Volcanic Monument which is located ~15miles east of Lapine. From Sunriver that would be about a 30mile trip.

Located with Paulina Lake the Newberry lava fields may be a convenient place to pick up some obsidian. Monday I set out for a drive to find some stones. The short, easy walk from Crater Campground to the middle crater turned out to be an up-hill hike through the woods.  I had been told that the little crater held obsidian and that nabbing a few pieces wouldn’t be noticed by the Feds. My hike began a 6,331 feet. I ended my trek at ~7,000’ when I reached a near summit
between Paulina and East lakes. The views were spectacular under a crisp blue sky. Now and again I would hear the scampering of a ground squirrel or the distant thumping of a woodpecker. If it weren’t for those noises, there would be none. I was alone and I was nowhere near obsidian.

Climbing the trail found me stopping every few hundred yards to slow my heart rate and to catch some deep breaths. I was able to
take in how the forest floor had been piled like a boneyard with fallen pine. There was sparse under brush, but there was lots of fodder for mankind, or Nature to build a raging campfire. At a few places along the trail the slope was steep enough that its builders, probably the CCC, had felt it necessary to lay in sections of railroad sleepers to build steps.

The return hike uses less energy, as it is downhill. From a physics viewpoint, the roundtrip should net zero work. However,
climbing down a narrow, dusty trail requires more careful thought be given to each foot placement than does the climb up. In either direction one cannot just stroll along and gaze at distant scenery. The focus is on the trail. I broke a limb from a fallen pine and fashioned a walking stick. The narrow end of the stick had a large curve to it. I found that striking it out in front every couple of steps produced a springing response when I re-lifted it. Oddly, I found using the stick entertaining on my way back.

I heard a nearby woodpecker pecking for grub. I used the stick to tap the bark of a tree and I tried to emulate the pulses the woodpecker had made. When I stopped, the woodpecker responded. We communicated back and forth for a couple of minutes. I don’t know if the bird was successful at food gathering, but I was getting hungry.

Anne always seems to find gifts which bring entertainment and functionality. For my birthday she bought me a Fitbit. The Fitbit is a device which is worn like a watch. The Fitbit keeps track of your daily activity, caloric use and intake, as well as monitoring how well you have slept. It can also be programmed to eight different alarms which cause the device to vibrate when it is time. I wore the Fitbit for my Paulina Lake trip. When I synced it with my IPhone that night, it showed that I had taken 7,828 steps during the day. I felt it that evening when I finally got to bed.

Exiting the Newberry Monument I stopped at the visitors’ center. I inquired of the ranger on duty where I might find obsidian. She informed me right off that it was prohibitive to remove anything from within the park boundaries. She went on to recommend the Lapine Saturday Market if I wanted finished obsidian or Glass Butte if I wanted to scrounge for stones on the ground.

Glass Butte is approximately 70 miles east of Bend, on Hwy 20.
The butte is located on fenced grazing land owned by the BLM. BLM allows incursions so long as gates are reclosed and outback conservative protocols are followed. The agency permits the removal of stones from the land.

Tuesday morning Anne and I set out to find Glass Butte. When we had gone 70 miles, I turned on Google map on the IPhone and it said we had 20 more miles to drive. The phone’s GPS brought us right to the gated entrance which led to Glass Butte. I opened the wire gate, drove through, and reclosed the gate. For the next couple of miles we were going to be on unimproved dirt roads.

The going along the beaten, water troughed track was slow and cautious. Dirt had been washed away from large stones on the path. Avoiding road hazards meant steering close to the paint scratching sagebrush crowding the edge of the trail. This was not ideal environs for Anne’s Honda CRV.

As we climbed higher we began to notice sparkling glasslike shards lying in and alongside the trail. The glints were coming from pieces of obsidian. We were on the right road.

At mile 2, the GPS told us to turn right in 800 feet. When we made the turn, we were looking up a very rutted stretch of road. We were not going to try to get the CRV through there. We had just passed a siding which offered a pullover and a place to noodle
around for surface obsidian. I backed out of the turn and returned to the siding.

Obsidian lay everywhere. Interspersed with patches of wild grass were large areas strewn with fist sized and smaller pieces of shiny black obsidian. We had found ourselves in knappers’ heaven.


Each of us had a fabric grocery bag and we filled them up. I scouted for large pieces as well as for smaller stones which could be quickly knapped into a shape. Some stones had irregular surfaces and I wondered if, when broken, they would be irregular inside, too. Being newbie collectors, we did not know what surface characteristics to avoid, and which to select. I suspect we ended up with a whole lot of both.

Each March a Bend area outdoor group hosts a Glass Butte Camp-in. You take your chances with the early spring
weather.Members, and strangers, meet to enjoy what Glass Butte has to offer: hiking, knapping, visiting, and archery. The list of activities is long. The siding we parked at may be a camping site for these March outings. A large stacked stone wall had been erected around two stone campfires. The walls buffered the prevailing wind direction and one of the stone fire pits was positioned so it could provide warmth for wall protected ground sleepers. A tree at this site had a 3’x3’ wood table attached to it. The table had a small pile of obsidian on it. Perhaps used for both standup knapping and for meal service, the table would be a valuable asset to the campers.

New ruts and obstructions were discovered on the two mile drive back down the hill side. When we exited I took a snapshot of an easily recognized roadside landmark on the other side of the road. Anne drove us into Bend where we located a Wendy’s and sat down for a well-deserved late lunch.

Friday, March 27, 2015

Winter 2015 RV Adventures


Barstow, and Beyond
 

Anne hooked us up with the Barstow Calico KOA, located a few miles east of
Barstow central. The RV Park was just a few blocks off of I-15. We were settled in by 2:30pm. This KOA is a most well-furnished park. There is a well laid out tent area, complete with safari tents, set up and ready for a large group; individual tent sites, each with a fire pit, table, and pent angular sunshade; nicely shaded pull-through hookup sites, cleanly furnished bathrooms and showers, and a large fenced area corralling all kinds of well-built children’s play structures.
On the western side of a line of trees, which provide shade for the tent area, is a campground archery range. At the far end of the range, past the 50 yard marker, there is a six foot high sand berm. Hay bales were stacked at the 20 yard marker. A picnic table is placed near the shooting line. This is the first opportunity I have had to do any shooting on the trip.
I have one storage bay devoted to archery and other project things. I gathered one of my wooden bows, quiver, arrows, wrist guard, string glove, and yes, a tinny, and headed for the range. I shot four, 16 arrow ends at the 20yard target. When I last shot, several weeks ago, my left elbow pained from the stress. I expected a similar reaction. I was happy not to feel anything. I hadn’t lost a lot of skill. My aim seems to have traveled well. 
Our plan was to put up for a few weeks at Joshua Tree National Park. However, Anne couldn’t locate an RV Park with a site available for our size of rig. She found, instead, a full hookup site in the San Bernardino National Forest, at the Serrano Campground, on the shore of Big Bear Lake.
California highway 247 took us 34 miles south of Barstow to Lucerne Valley. At this junction we crossed onto highway 18 to go into the National Forest. Highway 18 is not a happy road. For the last 10 miles we were climbing on a grade of from 8% to 16%. The road snaked around sheer cliffs. Curves were posted as slow as 10 mph. At the top we were
greeted by Big Bear City, boasting a population of over 6,000. I thought that to be pretty amazing. Big Bear City hosts a person for about every foot of elevation above sea level. In the last 24 hours we had gone from -282feet to 6,814feet.
The sky was a crisp blue. There was no dust haze in the air, or pollution.  The mile high air was brisk. There were patches of snow on the ground. After only one wrong turn, and a harrowing return to the highway through tight residential streets, thanks Dash Bitch, we soon found the entrance to Serrano Campground.  A narrow road led to the entry guardhouse where we checked in.
The attending Ranger had Anne’s reservation for Site #47 on the Snowberry RV Loop. She cautioned us to disconnect the toad before entering the RV Loop. The Ranger had been correct. The Snowberry RV Loop was narrow and pine forested. Anne led the way to the site and walked back to guide me clear of rocks and trees as I backed in. We are here.
After a small bit of adjusting of the hydraulic jacks on the paved slip, we were at our home for the nest week. A squirrel popped out of a hole beside the RV.  It nodded a brief welcome, and then it dashed back down into its warren.
By late afternoon the sky had clouded. The temperature was 42F. During the visit with the Ranger, she had said the mountain was expecting to get up to a foot of snow in the next couple of days. When Anne asked about driving back down with the snow, the Ranger responded with a short giggle. She said the park would be kept cleanly plowed, but we were going to be here until roads were once more clear. I guess it’s time for Death Valley Bob to change into some long pants, and put on the boots.
The RV features a residential heat pump for normal heating and cooling. This is ok when you are in a full hook up site, as we are at Serrano Campground. When you are dry camping, without hook ups, you can’t use the heat pump unless you are running the generator. The RV has two auxiliary heating systems; one is used just for the bathroom and bedroom, the other is a whole coach heater. Both use propane, which is a limited resource on the RV.
The first night at Serrano the temps dropped to the low 20’s. The heat pump wasn’t happy trying to suck usable warmth out of those near Artic conditions. We closed off the front of the coach and turned on the bedroom’s propane system. Several nights at these temperatures would leave us without enough propane to cook breakfast.
In the morning I looked up Big Bear City grocery stores on the GPS. I found a Von’s, and off we went. The prices at Von’s were very good, so we loaded up. At the neighboring hardware store I bought a 100w heat lamp, a 1500w portable space heater, and a small, foldup snow shovel. The heat lamp will keep the pipes in the outside water compartment warm, the space heater will keep the bedroom warm, and, I am hoping, the snow shovel will be a throw away.
 
Our RV experiences have been centered on driving away from the southern Oregon winters into warmer climes. Best intents aside, compost still happens, to wit, Serrano Campground in a snow storm. So, we learn to adapt.
            This morning we awoke to a cloudless, deep blue sky. During the course of breakfast we were treated to the sight of three Stellar Jays. They hopped around in the snow, foraged in the rusty, round steel barbeque pit, and pecked at fallen pine cones. With a beak to tip-of-tail length of 12”, these are good sized birds.
            The birds had just flown away, when we spotted a coyote cautiously passing our site. The coyote was carrying a squirrel in its mouth. The animal looked well fed and was probably in much better condition than the ones that serenaded us at Stovepipe Wells. The coyote kept a steady pace as it arched around the RV, giving us a wide berth. It kept its eyes straight ahead, but its tail hair appeared to be fluffed fuller than it should have been. I suspect the tail was displaying the coyote’s state of readiness for fight or flight.
             Anne completed the top for another quilt. She had also sewed an eye catching table
runner. She wanted to drive to Big Bear City and visit a fabric store. She needed to buy some complementary backing and batting for the quilt and runner. We queried the Dash Bitch and found a quilt store next to Kmart. On the way, I caught a couple of pictures of the lake. The city and ski slopes are in the background.
            Big Bear Lake was inhabited by the indigenous Serrano Indians for over 2,000 years prior to discovery by gold mining explorers in the mid eighteen hundreds. The Southern California gold rush, from 1861 to 1912, caused the population to swell. The lake’s name came from the Grizzly bears which habited the region until 1908. The San Bernardino National Forest was established in 1907. It had been recognized that the natural beauty of the region was being decimated by the logging of its vast stands of old growth timbers. Big Bear Lake is now a gemstone in this mountainous forest land. Serrano Campground is located on the north shore of the lake.
            After Anne finished her shopping, we drove around the lake. We discovered what a wonderful, and fun filled place this region would be during warmer summer days. Both sides of the road display countless numbers of very fancy, resort type homes. There are, smattered amongst the more wealthy, a large variety of well-maintained summer cottages. As we approached the south shore village, the business side of the lake came prominent. This is an entertainment haven, for all seasons. As we took in the sights, we agreed that one of the more stately homes must belong to the chainsaw artist who carved the bear figures. Featured as greeting totems at nearly every home and business is a wooden bear, waving, holding a sign, or pretending to be climbing a wall so it can have a look into a shop window.

There is an unwritten, yet awesomely predictable law regarding motoring large vehicles on mountain, or curvy highways. The law would read: If you are entering a curve, predictably a blind one with a precipitous cliff edge which overlooks an expansive valley hundreds of feet below, you will meet an oncoming vehicle, most probably a large truck, at the apex of the bend. No way, you say. Trust me. Take your forty foot behemoth, together with its twenty foot toad extension, on a weekend mountain excursion. Your jaw will drop.
Now, as you beg for sleep that night, wonder some what-if’s. What if I had been on the outside of that 10 mph curve? Would my combined sixty feet of length have been able to complete the corner without segmenting into a portion of the other lane at the apex? I know that on the inside, if I had turned any tighter I would have scrapped the side of the RV on the protruding stony edge of the bank.
We had spent a week at the Serrano Campground. Sunshine from the last couple of days had guaranteed we wouldn’t be driving on snow packed, or icy roads.  Anne and I decided we would not tow the CRV down the mountain from Big Bear Lake. Some of the corners had just been too tight.
The most convenient path to our next stop, Desert Hot Springs, was to go back the way we had come, and link up at Lucerne Valley. We kept in touch using walkie talkies. We had missed many of the vistas on the way up, likely due to the fact that they either weren’t observable, or because we were trying not to think about what was on the other side of that very small guardrail. On this sunny, Friday morning the sights were magnificent.
A short highway bypass between highway 18 and highway 274, took us past a sprawling solar farm. This extensive array just sat there, staring at the sun all day, collecting free energy. I can’t imagine how much power must have been generated. We stopped near the farm’s entrance and connected the CRV. The unwritten law about mountain driving had held true, but I was prepared for it.
It would take us a little more than an hour to drive to Desert Hot Springs. I had Googled RV parks in the greater Palm Springs area. Current events in the valley found the vicinity pretty well booked up. The Indian Wells Tennis Tournament is currently in-play, as is the Bob Hope Classic Golf Tournament. The Sands RV & Golf Resort offered first time visitors a nine day stay for the price of one week. This cost was the best rate in the valley, so I booked us in. Driving to the Palm Desert region, the flora changed significantly. Cactus became prominent. I know there is a botanical tie to the name which was given to the region, but there may also have been another reason it is called the Yucca Valley.
The Sands Resort has it all; 9 hole golf, tennis/pickleball shuffle board, horseshoes,
pool, and spa. There are over 200 sites at the Sands. All of them are full hookup, back in spots. Some of the sites are occupied by Resort Homes. These are mobile homes which are offered for purchase; so one can, “Start Living the Dream”. We are lodged at Site #441.
Temperatures have been in the mid to high 80s and the RV’s heat pump has had to work non-stop. It feels good to sit outside beneath the awning, when the near constant winds aren’t trying to rattle it to bits. The sites are hedged with oleander. This tall fence provides late afternoon shade for our outdoor respite. Anne spent a good part of Sunday preparing a Mexican meal which we will share with tomorrow’s dinner guests, the Sullivans.
Mike and Sue Sullivan live in Medford and are staying in Rancho Mirage. They have come to the desert to attend some of the Indian Wells tennis matches. Mike is a custom home building contractor and Sue used to be an elementary school teacher. Anne and Sue go back many years as friends in tennis. The two have also shared membership in a pinochle group, formed from a clutch of likeminded tennis ladies.
The Mexican dinner turned out wonderfully. Now, how about some pinochle, ala cabernet. Rob and Anne partnered against Mike and Sue. A new deck was opened and we were all wearing short sleeves. “So, you see, Sue, there was no way to hide anything under them.” The first game was won by Anne with a lay-down, shoot-the-moon. The second was won by me, also with a shoot-the-moon. This new, slippery deck of cards seemed to be favoring the hosts. Finally, we were in a game which had some play history. Both teams won, and both teams were set. Each team battled its way out of the hole and had eyes set on the finish line. Drats! Again, Rob and Anne came out on top.
Mike and Sue had golf and tennis to do tomorrow. I have always enjoyed Sue’s cheerful company. This had been my first opportunity to visit with Mike. They are a fun couple, and I hope we will get together often to share in conversation and games. Next time, I know, the card gods will be behind the rings on their side. 
            We subscribe to DirecTV at home. I had removed one of the receivers from the house, and I have been using it in the RV. I bought a SWM TV antenna, on a tripod, and at several parks I have tried to align the dish to the DirecTV satellites. With an app on the IPhone, I can easily spot the satellites, but it is an endless task, trekking back and forth between the antenna and the TV, to get everything tuned. The other day I received some gentle nudging from Anne to buy one of the self-tuning, carry out antennas.
I located an “Antenna’s Our Us” store which offered what I was looking for, at a good price, and with free shipping. The Wingard G2 arrived via FedEx at our site yesterday. The G2 is easy to set up and I had it in place and powered in just a few minutes. Connect the supplied coax to the receiver. Connect the supplied power wire to the antenna. Set the DirecTV receiver to the recommended selection. Plug the power into an aux 12v receptacle, and listen to the G2 whir and hum as it aligns to the satellites. At the TV hit tune, and in a couple of moments it’s done.
            We have all heard of the “Desert Graveyard” for airplanes. The vast square miles of Mojave Desert was early recognized as a perfect non-corrosive storage site for the old bones, both commercial, and military. The Palm Springs Air Museum brings some of the history of those artifacts back to life. The museum is located at the NE corner of the Palm Springs Airport, on Gene Autry Trail. Anne and I spent a few hours yesterday touring the museum.
            The Air Museum is really a history of WWII. The building is two very large hangers,
joined by a lobby in the middle. The Pond Hangar presents the history of the Pacific Theater, and the war with Japan. The Cravens Hangar displays aircraft and memorabilia from the European Theater, and the war with Germany. The aircraft in each hanger have oil drip pans under their noses. They are regularly maintained.
            The Pond Hangar brings one current on the reasons for Japan’s Pacific aggression. This is done through timelines, murals, and photographs. Planes of the war are arranged in the center of the hangar. Around the perimeter are: WWII battlefield weapons; scaled, hand-crafted models of America’s warships; surrender documents; and even, a display of Bob Hope memorabilia. Following the attack on Pearl Harbor, two things became readily apparent: aircraft carriers would play a much larger role in warfare than had previously been envisioned, and the success of carriers would depend largely on the skills of well-trained pilots. A massive plan was instituted to qualify 45,000 Navy pilots. Training one how to fly was the easy part, but they couldn’t spare using any of the Navy’s five, in battle carriers for the necessary training on how to land at sea. 
In 1941, Commander Richard F. Whitehead was aviation aide to the head of the Navy’s Great Lakes Training Center. Months before Pearl Harbor, when America was feverishly preparing for the inevitable, he had advocated converting existing lake steamers into training aircraft carriers. No one in the Bureau of Ships hierarchy listened. But after the Japanese demonstrated the potential of naval air power at Pearl Harbor, the idea gathered supporters. The Chief of Naval Operations liked the idea. Very soon the Navy was on a fast-track to create a pair of fresh water training carriers. That effort entailed the acquisition and conversion of two vintage side-paddle-wheel lake steamships! Great Lakes’ shipbuilders stripped away their passenger decks. Fully cut down to their hulls, the steamers retained their archaic propulsion equipment; straight stem bows and graceful spoon sterns. Flight decks were constructed atop each hull. Both vessels’ flight decks had to be extended far beyond their bows and sterns to provide suitable simulations of combat carriers’ flight decks. Eight landings on Lake Michigan qualified the newly winged pilots as sea-worthy.
The Cravens Hanger took us to the European war with Germany. The memorabilia around the walls seemed to focus more on highlights of individuals, and smaller infantry units. While the other hanger left one with a feeling that machines could do it all, these displays brought you into the reality that both war fronts were often carried down to hand-to-hand survival combat, in the mud. Heroes were greatly highlighted in WWII. There were over 200 Metal of Honor recipients in the war. Later to become a film star, Audie Murphy was America’s most decorated soldier of WWII.

 The price for admission to the Palm Springs Air Museum is $14. This amount bought you a white wrist band. For a few dollars more, you could buy a red wrist band. The red band permitted you to go to the rear of the hangers and climb aboard the B-29 Superfortress, Fifi. Fifi is the World’s only flyable B-29. Anne celebrated her 60th birthday party inside a C-97 at the Medford airport. The C-97 is the freight hauling version of the B-29. Neither of us wanted a red band. However, for just an extra $500 one could purchase a ride on Fifi. Well, maybe on another day. Ever wonder how some things end up where they do? I pondered that question, in regards the Air Museum. No matter. The museum presents an excellent history of America’s involvement in WWII.
The next morning, I was outside tidying the area around the RV. An RV wash &
wax, detail man was coming tomorrow to give the rig a dressing. In the background I heard the distinctive, and familiar drown of the huge engines of one of the borate bombers which fly out of Medford during the fire season. As the noise grew louder I looked up, and I saw Fifi. She was flying at about 2,000 feet, on an upwind departure into the Coachella Valley.
 The road to Joshua Tree National Park took us back through the city of Yucca Valley to the town of Joshua Tree, at the Park’s NW entrance. The Park is nestled between several small mountain ranges. The alluvial planes between the mountains have created vast desert basins. The Park has almost 600,000 acres and it is a transition zone between the Mojave and Colorado Deserts. Entering from the west, you are at 3,000 feet and immediately thrust into Mojave Desert landscape. Expanses of Joshua trees fill the planes. The trees, which aren’t really trees, grow about twenty feet apart. From a distance, their average height of 15-20 feet gives one the impression of looking over a very dappled lawn-scape.
The Joshua tree is a species of yucca. Like other desert plants, its waxy, spiny leaves expose little surface area, efficiently conserving moisture. Joshua trees can grow over 40 feet tall – at a rate of an inch a year. We glimpsed a few trees with their large, cream-colored flowers preparing to bloom.
The Mojave side of the park is a rock climber’s dream come true. Huge piles of granite boulders and cliffs are everywhere. The granite, Pinto gneiss (nice), was upheaved eons ago by volcanic activity. Underlying magma cooled, cracked, and continued to rise. It was exposed to groundwater weathering, which worked on the angular edges of the fragmented blocks. The result is stacks of granite scattered everywhere, like careless piles of toy blocks.

The Park has many campgrounds and points of interest. We stopped at Hidden Valley, a legendary cattle rustlers’ hideout, and walked the looping trail among massive
boulders. When you get out of the car, there are a lot of special things to see. Anne walked the mile long loop, while I fossicked and photographed plants and landscape. Sadly, pictures don’t do justice to the awesomeness of this environment.
The transition between the Mojave and the eastern Colorado Desert landscapes seemed quite abrupt. We drove from sand colored gneiss boulder piles into hills which looked like the dark, jagged piles of tailings from quarry mining. The flora changed from Joshua tree groves, interspersed with Pinto pines and Cholla cactus, to a scene of Creosote bush, struggling patches of weed, and an occasional Ocotillo cactus. The baron Pinto Basin stretched for miles. The 50 mile long park road links up with I-10 at the south center of the National Park. 
       Saturday night at the Sullivan’s, sounds like a TV soap series, for cards and a Barbie. Mike and Sue had rented a home at Mission Hills, in Rancho Mirage. Mission Hills is a private, gated, country club community. Upon clearing the guardhouse, the very first thing
Anne and I noticed was how lusciously green are all of the yards. Somehow, this walled-in estate of homes had tapped into a secret, unlimited supply of water. Sullivan’s home is banked on a small lake. The kidney shaped lake is rimmed at the thirty-yard line with similar, stucco style homes.  Ducks, coots, and a water fountain are active, nonstop in trying to keep the algae burdened water from turning a darker green. From the tiled, awning covered decks to the water’s edge, spread succulent groomed grass.
The banker, who owns the home, has a golf cart. Mike and Sue enjoy golf, as well as tennis. They had driven the cart to the Club’s golf house, only to be turned away, and scowled at for having the audacity to ask to play; with no membership, and arriving in such a non-upscale vehicle. They told us the tennis courts were also out of bounds for non-members. However, Mike reckoned, when there is no one around, whose is going to complain. And, what if they do?
Sue’s new deck of pinochle cards worked in their favor. We had told them they would have a card-god turn around, and they did. Anne and I were severally whooped. Oh, well. Who wanted to play this damned game, anyway? The sun was below the trees. It was time for dinner. Chef Mike lit the Barbie and prepared a dinner of just right, juicy chicken breasts. During the meal we watched a distant neighbor lady run off her deck, swinging a broom, and shouting at a flock of black coots on the lawn. She scared them back onto the water. We were told that the birds would eat the sprouting grass, and that would cause the lawns to brown. Mike said he enjoyed throwing at the birds a few of the colored glass beads he found in one of the many terracotta urns which decorated the deck. He agreed with me that a slingshot may work better.
   Sunday morning was a lazy event. After egg burritos and a crossword puzzle, we drove to the Sands’ reception office to extend a couple more days. Connie Davis-Young is another fine, and fun tennis friend. Connie and her husband live in Long Beach in the winter and in Central Point during summer. She and Anne have planned to meet for lunch on the 17th. So, our stay of a nine-day week has turned into twelve. For guys it’s a book and a beer on the sofa; or, a wrench with some grease, in the garage. But it is never, “Shall we meet for lunch in a week, say, at Palm Springs?” Women are such social animals. I won’t say anything. Anne would just tell me that if I were to plan beyond the refrigerator, then I, and my men friends, could be enjoying something beyond a tinny, in the man cave. I won’t offer her the opportunity to disparage the joy that we guys share.
Anne’s lunch and tennis with Connie went well. They were able to watch some
singles and some doubles matches. She was weather beaten and exhausted when she dragged herself into the RV this early evening.  Although there is a high degree of jazz in the air when one watches sports live, at the arena, there is definitely a higher degree of comfort when the event is seen, close up on a wide screen, in an air conditioned room.
By 8:30am we were caravanning up the mountains back towards Yucca Valley. The most convenient route to Barstow, and then on to Las Vegas, was highway 274. Anne reserved the night of the 18th at the Barstow Calico KOA. By 11 o’clock were set up in site #13. Anne took the hamper of clothes and sheets to the laundry room, and I took my bow and arrows to the archery range. She soon joined me, and I hurled 50 carbon fibers at my six inch paper plate.
I knew the metropolitan freeway scene was going to be a little hectic. Before we set out on the three hour drive from Barstow, I verified the routes we were going to drive to have us end up, comfortably, at Sam’s Town Casino & RV Park, in Las Vegas. Anne had set up reservations for two nights, and she had called Ian and arranged to go out to dinner Friday with him and Rebecca. This was going to be a fun couple of days.
We were at 1.1 miles to the turn off of I-15. The dash bitch told me to stay to the right. As we approached the demarcation point, there appeared before us about 28 options; freeways crossed one another in a fashion resembling a plate of asphalt spaghetti. As I recall, eleven of those choices were on the right. That’s how we ended up with a 40 foot motorhome, toad in tow, driving down the heart of the Las Vegas strip. We turned off the strip onto Tropicana. This was a straight shot to Boulder Highway, home to the RV Park. After several miles of close quarter’s stop-and-go, we merged onto Boulder Highway. The GPS lady hadn’t lied. She got us to Sam’s Town, but somewhere along the way she had decided it may be more fun if she toured us through the heart of the city.
Boulder RV Park is laid out like a playhouse. There are three long rows of pull-through sites, which could be the theater’s stage. At stage front and center are restrooms, showers, pool, and spa. This orchestra pit is surrounded by six arced rows which create a fan of back-in sites. Unlike traditional parks, which are platted in a rectilinear grid, the grid at Sam’s Town sets a stage for entertainment to follow. Site numbering began at 1209 and went up to 1499. We were placed at rear stage right, in site #1337.
I met Anne at the casino for a buffet treat at dinner time. I found her parked in Penny
Lane. She was doing very well, but was getting bored by her particular machine. Anne selects slot machines which have bonus rounds. At the moment, she was watching the bandit spin through pull #47, of 103 free spins she had accumulated during a single bonus play. After each spin, the machine beeped and played a tune before getting on with the next whirl. Somewhere in the mid-80’s, Anne was awarded with another 19 free spins. The good thing about bonus rounds is that an ante amount isn’t subtracted from your stash with each spin. Each free spin doesn’t always add to your wallet, either. However, at the culmination of 122 bonus spins, Anne had added over $60 to her purse. Now, Honey, can we get something to eat?
Ian and Rebecca knocked on the door a few minutes before seven for our Friday night out. We visited a bit, and then loaded into the CRV for a drive up Flamingo. Ian had made 7:30 reservations at Roy’s Hawaiian Restaurant. Anne turned the car over to Ian, and she and I sat in back. During the ride, we learned a lot about the preparations for their upcoming May nuptials. The event will be held in Temecula, a lush wine growing region near San Diego. Perhaps the last place a Las Vegas couple dreams of for their wedding is Sin City, itself.  After hearing more of their plans, the promise of fond memories are pretty much in the sack. 
The time at Roy’s was great. We visited about family and the future. Rebecca works at a large Windermere Realty office. We learned that she is first generation American. Rebecca’s mother came over from England. Both are eager to travel more, and Ian’s software design work permits relocation anywhere, so long as he has internet access. In their immediate future, they will be honeymooning for a bit in Orlando, and Disney World, and for a short time in the Florida Keys. After dinner we returned to the RV, visited more, and shared some Merlot. Ian and Rebecca have found complimentary partners in one another. I have no doubt that the family will greet Rebecca with open arms when they get to welcome her into the Duncan Clan.
 We were too close to dear friends, Judy Mooster and Phyllis Chaney, living in St. George, UT, to not visit. The drive to St. George was two hours from Las Vegas, on I-15E. Sunday morning we put some fruit and snacks in a bag and headed out.  We enjoyed a few chapters of Walt Longmire’s escapades in Dark Horse, by Craig Johnson. When one is traversing mind numbing desert starkness, a modern Western thriller speeds the miles by. 
Judy has a home in the western most suburb of St. George, an adult retirement community called Sun River. Judy and Anne have been great friends, and tennis partners, for many years. Judy has switched to the less physically demanding pickleball, in lieu of tennis. She has become very involved in her community, and has even rankled her 92 year old father, Fred, and Diana, to buy into Sun River. It was energizing to hear all of the fun activities a well-organized retirement village can offer.
Phyllis lives on Lizzy Lane. She had told Anne that she sleeps late and that we shouldn’t come to get her for lunch until 1:30. Phyllis’ late husband, Cliff, was my flying mentor. Cliff was 94 when he died. He was a flight instructor to the end. Cliff was so close to achieving his desire to be a 100 year old flight instructor. Phyllis has been working at downsizing from her elegantly furnished home for the last couple of years. She shared over lunch her difficulty with that task. Phyllis is a very creative craft woman. When her craft urges took over her conscious being, she would stock up on whatever materials she might need. That was reasonable. However, Phyllis bought supplies with the assumption the purveyor may go out of business when she needed more stock. As a result, the home is packed with excesses.

 Phyllis’ favorite restaurant in St. George has always been Izzy’s. This is where we had our lunch. Izzy’s is a favored eatery for Anne and Judy, as well. They both love the fish tacos. We enjoyed a long, lazy lunch hour. When we took Phyllis home, we all dug in and helped empty cupboards in the garage. Phyllis no longer had a car, so we neatly stacked boxes on the floor. This was clearly a first step toward downsizing. However, when a second step would be taken was up in the air.
We said our goodbyes to Phyllis and drove Judy back to Sun River. If either of us competes in the Huntsmen Senior Games this fall, we will be able to start where we left off with these two great friends.
There are other RV park choices along the way, but Tonopah Station is such a convenient way point. We left Sam’s Town at 11am. We arrived in Tonopah at 4 o’clock. We followed a 5th wheel rig into the twenty site lot at the rear of the casino. We quickly grabbed one of the remaining four sites. The other spots were rapidly filled. Tonopah Station doesn’t take reservations. We were very lucky.
The city of Tonopah is in the mountains and it is at 6,200 feet elevation. There was a
quick breeze blowing, and the air was chilly. After leveling the rig, and getting the outside stuff all hooked up, I dug the space heater out of the closet. Tomorrow, it would be back to wearing long pants.
Paperwork needed to be done. The engine needed to be warmed and idled for a length of time. Finally, the Dairy Land delivery man was ready to pull his tractor and trailer away from the receiving dock at the rear of the casino. We were unable to complete a left turn from our site until the truck was moved. There was really no huge hurry. The drive today is going to be to Fallon, which is 170 miles north of Tonopah. We would stay one night at the Fallon RV Park. The next day we drive north, past Reno, and spend our final night at Susanville RV Park. Large, distinctly formed, and widely spaced clouds tried to fill the expansive desert sky, while the setting sun painted a soft yellow-red onto their edges.
We have arrived at camp with time to spare, and have watched the setting sun. There was always a tinny in the fridge, when the driving has been done. My lovely wife has ridden shotgun, as we have seen the West unfold. There is more of America yet to see, and more of the story to be told.